Bit för bit åker dom dit.
Transmission, transmissionskåpa och förarstolen är klara för montering. Jag har bara påbörjat vädringen på dom, men det känns smartast att montera dom redan nu, så jag inte sitter och gör en massa målningsjobb i onödan. Kan jag se det så kan jag vädra det. Och kan jag inte se det… varför vädra? (Notis till mig själv: varför målade du motorn så ingående då? Hmm…).
Falling into place.
Starting today, I’ll deliver the blog reports in English too. I’m also planning on making an English summary of reports #1 – #27.
So, here we go!
Transmission, transmission cover and the driver’s seat are now ready to be permanentlky fixed in place. I’ve just started weathering these parts, the final effects can be done in situ: What you see, you can paint! And if you can’t see it, why paint it? (Note to self: then why did you paint the engine so meticiously? Hmm…) .
Här är en bild till på chassiet. Luckan som täcker vänstra undre bränsletanken och bandspänningsanordningen ska vara löstagbar (övre bränsletank och fläktinsug är också löst monterade för att komma åt).
Another picture of the ”Wanne” as of this morning. The cover over the lower left fueltank and track tensioning gear will be detachable. The upper fueltank and radiator on that side will have to be removable also, to gain access to the cover.
Thank you for your reply.How did you get such a realistic leather look with the seat.It looks like real aged leather.
One thougth about weathering some of my friends see exellent models where they think things like weathering ect.. is now being over done because it now can be.But your weathering so far looks very sutterly done and is light.regards.
Dear Sir.
I really like the way that you are doing this kit.
I have one of them as well and i can certainly see that there is so much detail and hard work being put in to your model.
Can you advise me what areas need to be worked on to make it really special and what materials would you recommend to be used for these scratchbuilding.
Ian Sinclair
Stephen,
You’re absolutely right, there’s a fine line between enough and too much weathering. It all depends on what you want to depict: This King Tiger was produced in October 1944, so it has seen at most 4 months of service, 1 of those in combat. So I’m holding back on rust effects and other long term weathering and damage. On the other hand, it also depends on just hard the fighting was that final month of the tank’s life…
The leather effect is quite simple to do: first I base coated the seat with a light buff/yellow acrylic. Then i placed some small dabs of undiluted black and brown (burnt umber works really well) artists oil paint on the seat. Black towards the seat edges, brown towards the center of the seat. No oils in the very center. I now blended the black and brown, toning it towards the middle. With a very soft, flat and clean, dry brush (without paint), I brush in a cross-hatch pattern to eliminate any brush strokes. The oil colours give the seat a natural leathery shine.
/Hans
Ian,
Congraulations on having a very special kit, indeed!
Have you seen David Parker’s fantastic work on the kit over at http://www.missing-lynx.com ?
There are a great number of errors and omissions in the kit, so it’s hard to say what you should focus on really…
ABER is about to release some extremely elaborate photoetch frets, I’d get those for sure!
Here’s a peek at the photoetch, shown at the Nuremberg Toyfair a couple of weeks ago:
http://www.primeportal.net/models/thomas_voigt3/aber