Vått-i -Vått.
Tornkorgen genomgår olika tortyrprogram för tillfället, men hittills har den hårdnackade typen vägrat släppa färgen. Nu släpper jag det eländet ett tag och ser till att få nåt gjort istället (jag är inte särskilt orolig för tornkorgen, det ordnar sig alltid).
Kvällens övning består i att göra flera moment på någon timma, moment som med standard-approach brukar kräva flera dagar med torkning mellan o.s.v. Objektet blir en del av kanonen som är grundad och klar för vädring. Jag börjar med att blanda till tre washer av stigande styrka. Jag kör med lacknafta och oljefärg. Bränd umbra i de två svagare blandningarna, bränd umbra med lite svart i för den starkaste washen. Jag brukar även blanda i lite matt Humbrolfärg i liknande nyans, det gör att färgen torkar fortare.
Wet-in-Wet.
Turret basket is currently undergoing various torture experiments, but so far is stubbornly refusing to give up its colour layer. Resistance is futile, I will win in the end!
Here’s a cool way of acheving several weathering steps in an hour or so, something that normally takes several days if you’re doing it the traditional way. I’ll use part of the cannon for the demonstration, it is properly basecoated in acrylics, blocked in and ready for some weathering. I start by mixing three washes of increasing strength, using white spirit and artists oils. Burnt umber for the two weaker washes, and I add a tiny pinch of black in the strongest one. I also add a little flat Humbrol of a similar hue to the burnt umber, as this will make the washes dry faster.
Den svagaste washen styker jag ut över alla ytor med en mjuk flat pensel,den blir närmast ett filter. Nästa wash riktar jag mot alla skarvar, hörn, försänkningar och bultar, och den starkaste washen applicerar jag med en riktigt spetsig pensel i och runt detaljer jag vill framhäva extra mycket. Den grundade ytan är matt och därför har washerna flutit ut rätt så fult som synes. Spelar ingen roll!
The weakest wash is applied as a filter over all areas with a soft, flat brush. The mid strength wash is targeted into corners, engravings, boltheads and so on, and the strongest wash is applied with a fine pointed brush onto and around parts I want to draw attention to. I did not apply a gloss or semi-gloss varnish to the flat basecoat as you can see, so the washes have bled out in a rather ugly fashion. Wont matter for the end results!
Nu duttar jag ut outspädd oljefärg på alla släta ytor, ja överallt. Det är bäst är att ta en avgränsad bit i taget. Jag mixar ihop duttarna med en lätt slumpmässig cirkelrörelse, och närmar mig försiktigt de washade delarna. Eftersom washen fortfarande är våt kan jag göra fina justeringar av washens utbredning och tona in den elegant i omgivningen. Jag avslutar med att applicera och tona ut ytterst små mängder bränd umbra på valda delar jag vill lyfta fram ytterligare. Man kan ta ut svängarna rent artistiskt, jag lade t.ex. mera gult på ramverket till höger för att särskilja det, och jag lade mest vitt på cylindrarna på ovansidan.
Next step is to apply dots of undiluted oil colour all over. It’s better to take a well difened area at a time, working methodically applying dots, and the blending them with a circular motion. Flat or round brush is a matter of taste, just make sure it’s a soft brush. I work my way towards the washes, and since the washes are still wet, I can blend them into the white/yellow very subtly and with great control. I finish off by applying minute dots of undiluted burnt umber at chosen spots I want to emphasize, and feather these carefully. It’s fun to let go here and be a bit artistic: I used more yellow on the bars behind the breech, more white on top of the recuperators, for example.
Och här har vi resultatet av 1 timmas arbete. Målat vått-i-vått, som impressionististerna gjorde.
Nu låter jag det hela torka ordentligt. Detaljwash, metalleffekter, highlights, chipping tänker jag göra nästa gång, även de momenten i ett svep.
And here’s the result! About 1 hours work, all painted wet-in-wet, like the impressionists did. Now i’m setting this piece aside to let it harden thoroughly. Pin washes, metallic effects, highlighting and chipping will be done next, all in one session.
Hi Hans so to properly understand how you apply your basic wash first do you mix an oil based artist’s oil such as raw umber with white spirits and do you apply it with a fine brush with a capilary action ?
And do you mainly paint with Tamiya acrylics?
Cheers
Sean
Hi Sean,
Artists oil raw umber thinned in white spirit, that’s right. I often also add some Humbrol flat brown/brownred to speed up the drying time.
– The first wash is so thin that I can use a broader, flat brush.
– For the second and third (stronger)washes I use a round, pointed No 3 or No 4 brush. Capillary action is doing most of the job in those stronger washes.
– Any mistakes can be easily corrected by using ”reversed capillary action”: I always have a clean flat brush at hand, lightly moistened in white spirit. With this I can suck up and redirect the washes. This brush is constantly rinsed.
As for Tamiya acrylics, I don’t use them much, as they don’t suite ”my style” so well. They don’t brush on very well, and the number of colours is perhaps a bit limited.
/Hans
Thanks for this information the reason I ask is although I’ve been modelling for well over 30 years now I have always built classic car subjects , never anything else !
Allways having an interest in Aviation and Armour I’m now building my first military models as such to give me a break from my client subjects?
I’ve obviously mastered an airbrush but started using Humbrol Enamels YUCK !! I have to confess I’m not used to using ”model Brand Paints” as all my car projects are always scratchbuilt in Metal and the paints I’m used to using are automotive acrylics.
I have just painted the Interior of my current Project The Trumpeter 1/16th scale T34/76 in Humbrol Flat white I want to give it a weather and a wash would white spirits strip the enamel surface if I were to use it ? or what would you recommend I use as a base for a wash?
Sean
Sean,
Great to hear you’re trying out armour modelling! It’s really awarding and you’ll hopefully carry over some of the new experiences into your car modelling.
If I had base coated with Humbrol, I’d airbrush on a protective coat of acrylic satin varnish before applying the wash. The Humbrol base coat could strip or partly lift because of the white spirit, especially if applied liberally.
That is why I use acrylics for my base coat, it won’t be affected by the white spirit at all. Acrylica are also a lot less yucky to airbrush!
Lastly, let the protective satin coat dry out, at least 6-12 hours before the wash to be on the safe side!
/Hans